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   2009
 
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The links below are roughly in the order I posted them, with newest at the top. The links at left are organized by geographical location.

San Francisco (July 2009)

San Francisco - July 2009. Click here to see more We were in the Bay area over the July 4 weekend. The main purpose of the trip was a get-together with old friends, the 5 guys who shared a house on Breese Terrace back in 1976-1977 while in school at the Univ. of Wisconsin - Madison. We had fallen out of touch over 30 years, but since 2007 are in contact again. In fact, this was the third time we had a reunion of sorts since 2007 (really the fourth, if you count the time Pradeep's plane could not land due to a blizzard and Tom managed to get the car stuck in the driveway, but that's for another day). Pradeep, Prem and Rod now live in Silicon Valley (Palo Alto and Saratoga), and have great careers in the high-tech industry. Tom lives in Minnesota and has a successful career with Northwest Airlines (now merged with Delta, and moving to Atlanta). And yours truly, still living the student life at the Univ. of Wisconsin. It is interesting how things change over 30 years. We have more grey hair (except Prem), great families, and much has happened, and yet there were moments when it felt like it was just yesterday that we were back at No. 10 Breese Terrace.

We had a great time. Pradeep and his wife Ranjana are perfect hosts, and we felt right at home in their fine home in Palo Alto. The weekend started with a Thursday night dinner at their place, and everyone was there even though we did not get in until after 11 PM due to flight delays in Denver (the airport at Denver does have free wireless network access).

Click here for the San Francisco 2009 photos.

Miami Beach (Feb. 2009)

Miami Beach - Feb. 2009. Click here to see more We were in Miami Beach for the last week of Feb. 2009. We prefer this time of the year because it is after boat show week, and before spring break, so the crowding is moderate. It is still quite cold in Wisconsin, but in Miami the days are slightly longer and warmer than, say, early January. I have noticed a trend that the spring breakers are starting to appear in Miami Beach earlier and in larger numbers than in the past. This trend was very visible this year, and inspite of a reported recession there was no shortage of tourists by the time we returned home on Mar. 1.

Another trend I've noticed is the general improvement and increasing popularity of the areas that border Ocean Drive. Specifically, the area just north of Ocean Drive (from 15'th to 23'rd Streets, centered around Lincoln Road), and the area known as SoFi (South of Fifth). We spent some time walking around both of these areas, and they are busier then ever, with many new new restaurants, businesses, hotels and condos. To an extent this has come at the expense of Ocean Drive itself, which seemed less crowded than years past. I think the number of tourists is greater than ever, they are just spread out more since there are more places to visit after dark.

Unlike most years we did not rent a car this time. This worked out well, because we spent more time walking and got to know some of the neighborhoods a bit better. We stayed near 5'th Street, so walked the SoFi area several times. Also took the South Beach Shuttle a few times to the Lincoln Road area. The shuttle (formerly known as the Elctrowave) is a small bus that goes up and down Washington Ave and Alton Roads between 1st and 20'th Streets (approx) and you can ride it for 25c per person per ride. The average wait is about 5 to 10 mins and it is very convenient for visitors and locals alike. The only minor problem I noticed is that the stops are not very well marked and sometimes hard to tell apart from the regular city bus stops. We walked the nearly completed Beachwalk a couple of times (very nice) and also discovered the Baywalk on the other side. The Baywalk is not complete but I understand the plan is to eventually have it be continuous from South Pointe to 18'th Street. It offers the best views of Downtown Miami esp. near sunset. Also, our new friend Clay invited us to his oceanfront beach condo, and we saw the fabulous beach views from the 9'th floor (the two pictures just after the one of the orange motrocycle). We also discovered two very good grocery options - Whole Foods on Alton Road (1000 block?) and the Epicure Market (corner of Alton and Lincoln).

For the first time, we did not stay at a hotel, but rented a small condo from a private owner. We did this by searching at http://www.vacationrentals.com/ and sending out emails to a few of the owners. We eventually settled on a studio unit at The Barbizon (530 Ocean Drive). The location was great as everything is a short walk away. We saved about 50% compared to staying at a full-service hotel, though of course there is no maid service or reception desk. We ended up sending a check for about one-third the amount in advance, and gave the rest as a check to the owner (TF) after arrival. There were a few glitches but nothing too major, and the studio was more like a largish hotel room with a very small kitchen, very handy for storing and warming leftovers and drinks. When we arrived we discovered the studio was at the back of the building, on the 3rd floor overlooking the back alley. Initially this seemed ideal because the road in front (Ocean Drive) is quite busy. The problem with the back alley is that while it is quiet during the day, early in the morning, between 6:30 and 8:00 AM, there seem to be a large number of garbage and other utility trucks that cause very loud banging and grinding sounds that make it hard to sleep. Even after one week we did not get used to this, and if I were to stay again at the Barbizon (or other buildings on Ocean Drive) I would try to avoid getting a room that overlooks the back alley.

We tried a few new dining options, and discovered two new ones that stood out and we'll definitely be trying again. First, we had an outstanding lunch at DeVito's (150 Ocean Drive http://www.devitosouthbeach.com/). It is on the expensive side for dinner, but lunch is a very good option, and less crowded as well. The second place that stood out is Joe's Stone Crab - for breakfast. (corner of Washington and South Pointe http://www.joesstonecrab.com/). I did not even know they had breakfast until this visit, when we noticed it by accident. The breakfast was really very good, in-expensive, and I would rank it on par with the Front Porch cafe as among the best in SoBe. Also we re-visited a couple of discoveries from our last visit, the Corner Pizzeria (aka Pizzeria D'Angolo) at 1446 Washington Avenue (corner of Espanola Way). They don't have a clear sign, so the address is the best way to find them. The one best thing on the menu is their thin crust pizza with chunks of tomato, mozzarella, and basil (not the pizza Margherita, which is separate). (Checking the online menu I see it is listed as "Ovali de biancaneve con mozzarella, pomodoro fresco e basilico - Chunks of fresh tomatoes, basil and fresh mozzarella"). It is about $15 but big enough for two, and on par with the best pizza anywhere. Their other pizzas are very good but not outstanding, and the pasta seems sub-par from the one time we tried it. The other place we revisted is Paul's bakery on Lincoln Road (corner of Drexel and Lincoln). Excellent breads, sandwiches, baked goods etc. About as good, and slightly less busy, is our old standby, the La Provence bakery at 1627 Collins Ave (under the Decoplage). Worth an honorable mention is the Hosteria Romano (1230 Ocean Drive). We were drawn in by the fun Italian music and the festive atmosphere, and the pizza and dessert were quite good. They also have a branch on Espanola way. We found a place at the corner of Euclid and 6'th that serves fresh-squeezed sugar-cane juice (thank you Joe). On a disappointing note there is still no really good Indian restaurant in SoBe, and in fact there is one less now as the new Indian Fusion place at 1500 Ocean Drive has closed down. There is also a shortage of Mexican places.

In comings and goings, South Beach seemed as busy as ever if not more so. As noted above, Ocean Drive itself was less crowded than years past, and we could walk it's length most nights without getting stopped by crowds. The weekend traffic jams also seemed not quite as jammed, and definitely quieter. The beach appeared more crowded than in the past, esp. areas south of 5'th and north of 15'th. A few buildings on Ocean Drive were closed for renovations, notably the Breakwater which seemed to be making no progress, and the Clevelander, which seemed about ready to repoen. Our favorite Ocean Drive performer, Alex Fox was now playing at the Oceans Ten restaurant (960 Ocean Dr) and with a new dancing partner. South Pointe park was still closed, but the renovations seemed complete and due to reopen within a month. It should be quite the spot to visit in the evenings when the cruise ships leave port. The new W Hotel on Collins (2200 block, replacing the old Holiday Inn) seemed nearly complete as well. The Fountainebleau at 4441 Collins had apparently finished a billion-dollar renovation but we did not get to visit. Plans were being implemented to provide free city-wide wireless Internet access to all of Miami Beach, with expected completion date sometime in 2009. It did not rain while we were there, but there were only two or three good beach days, the rest being either too cloudy or too windy, or both. We did not mind as there was plenty to do otherwise.

All in all a very good trip, and we were sorry to leave early on Sunday morning. Something of note, we called a taxi the night before, and the next morning I was surprised to get a text message at the appointed time that read "taxi waiting outside, number ####". Definitely the first time this has happened, and a sign of the times.

Click here for the Miami Beach 2009 photos.

Las Vegas (Dec. 2008)

Click here to see more This was a trip made memorable by a couple of unusual happenings (for Las Vegas) - it rained on two days, and even snowed on one. We had never before seen it rain for more than a few seconds in Vegas before, and certainly never any snow. The snow was the wet, heavy type that melts almost immediately, but the outskirts got a couple of inches that hung around for a day or two, and the surrounding mountains looked snow covered and pretty. It was a bit on the cool side, with daytime temps in the mid-40's (as compared to the upper 50's which would be normal for December in Vegas). The result of this was that we stayed in Vegas the entire time, and did not go out of town at all.

We stayed at The Flamingo, which I consider the best value in Vegas for places to stay. It has a prime location across from Caesar's and Bellagio, and next to Ballys and Paris. This time we got a room in the wing that runs next to Bill's (formerly Barbary Coast), and it was a decent size, though I noticed the bathrooms in this section are smaller than in the wing that runs parallel to The Strip. The two minor gripes are the overly soft beds, and there was only one chair and a small sofa. A second chair would be very useful. This was the first time we were staying there since 2004, but I could not detect many changes other than the shows and restaurants. There no longer appears to be a check-in desk for Flamingo at the airport, but we found the check-in at the hotel itself to be quite quick and painless.

We spent some time at the newly finshed Palazzo addition to the Venetian. It is taller and larger than the Venetian, and is connected from within near St. Mark's Square, though the canal does not extend into the Palazzo side. As you might expect, everything is first-rate, from high-end restaurants to high-end shops. There is a Lamborghini dealership (to counter the Ferrari dealership inside the Wynn, perhaps), and a very impressive and large fountain/sculpture (named Acqua di Cristallo) in the entrance lobby. While there we caught the new "Living Garden" show, which is free. It features dancing "statues" and "trees" and music and water and is worth a look.

The second Wynn tower (dubbed "Encore") appeared to be complete, but was scheduled to open a few days after our return, on Dec. 24, 2008, so we could not visit it. The very large $9 billion "City Center" development between Bellagio and Monte Carlo appeared about half completed. It is quite impressive in scale and design, featuring about 10 tall glass-sided buildings. I have to wonder what it might do to traffic congestion on the Strip once occupied. There are also other impressive looking tall buildings coming up in the space between Planet Hollywood and MGM. These appear to be mainly vacation homes or timeshares, and some have interesting designs. The golden Trump tower across from Wynn appears complete though we did not have time to visit. Caesar's is adding another tower facing Flamingo Road and Bellagio. The Strip skyline is changing significantly in the last year or so. One afternoon we drove a few miles SW of the city on Blue Diamond Road. What had been a mostly empty 2-lane road in the desert in 2001 is now a busy 6-lane highway with houses and shopping malls stretching for miles.

We visited the new "Town Square" mall at the south end of the strip, about a mile south of Mandalay Bay, and found it quite interesting. Of note are a well-stocked Whole Foods store, and a California Pizza Kitchen plus other restaurants we did not have time to try. On the topic of restaurants, I still consider the best Indian restuarant in Las Vegas to be India Palace, on Twain avenue about a block east of Paradise, or about a mile east of the Strip. Another place on the recommended list is JJ's Boulangerie inside Paris. Great sandwiches, fries, breads and pastries, and the newly added pizza is above average, though not as good as the pizza at California Pizza Kitchen. The portions at JJ's are very large, so unless you are very hungry it is best to order one item and split among two people.

One nice thing about Vegas in December is the Christmas themed music at the Bellagio Fountains, as well as at the Fremont Street Experience downtown. This is something you can't find at other times of the year. This trip we saw two shows, "Phantom" at Venetian, and "Mystere" at Treasure Island. They are both quite good, though I found the Phantom to be particularly outstanding. The theater, the special effects, the music, the acting, were all superb, and I highly recommend it for everyone, except perhaps children who may find it a bit serious and dull. I had seen the movie, and was not sure how it would translate to the Vegas stage, but in fact the play is better than the movie. Mystere is more kid and family friendly, and the general ambience is like going to the circus. Though very good, I thought it dragged in parts. The highlights were probably the comedy bits with the clown.

Overall a very good trip inspite of the weather. The main downer again was the 6:00 AM return flight which meant waking up at 2:30 AM. For a change, we travelled via Dallas/Fort Worth airport instead of the more usual Minneapolis or Chicago.

Click here for the Vegas 2008 photos.

Las Vegas and Grand Canyon South Rim (Sep. 2007)

Click here to see more This was a great trip with great weather every day - sunny and blue skies. The daytime photos reflect this. It was also fairly hot, but in Vegas the humidity is always low, and there are plenty of air-conditioned buildings to duck into. On this visit we noted a lot of new construction. The Wynn was adding a new tower, equal in size to the first 50+ story building. The Venetian addition, named Palazzo, was nearing completion. There was a new 60-story Trump tower on the site of the former New Frontier casino, and in general a fair amout of new construction on the north end of the Strip, between the Venetian and the Stratosphere. Also, the entire quarter mile or so between Bellagio and Monte Carlo appeared to be dug up for a very large project named "City Center". The Aladdin is now named "Planet Hollywood". They have changed the facade and the shopping mall inside is now named "Miracle Mile" and the theme of the decor is being re-done in stages. The former Barbary Coast is now named "Bill's Gamblin Hall and Saloon".

We stayed at The Paris, and the room was adequate and functional, though on the small side. It was about halfway up the building, with a view of Ballys and Flamingo. Paris has a great location across from Bellagio, with some good eating choices on site, and I recommend it if you can get a good rate. In most cases I still consider the Flamingo a better value because it is usually cheaper than Paris and the others at that location. On this visit we saw "Mamma Mia" at Mandalay Bay, and we both enjoyed it a lot. I would definitely recommend it if you enjoy musicals, or are not sure.

For a change we went to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. This was our first time back there since 1990. I had been ignoring the S. Rim under the mistaken belief that it might be over-developed due to the vast majority of tourists who go there, compared to the North Rim. I happily found that this is not the case. Except for a parking shortage around the main village, the South Rim has plenty of unspoilt views of the Canyon, and we will definitely plan to go there again in the future. The road from Grand Canyon Village to Hermits Rest is closed to private traffic during the summer, and there is a free shuttle bus one has to take. This was not a problem as the bus leaves every few minutes and you can get off and on as often as you wish. The bus ride was more rough than I expected, and one must hold on to something even while seated.

The only downer was having to wake up at 2:30 in the morning to catch the 6:00 AM flight back home.

Click here for the Vegas 2007 photos.

(This page last modified on Oct. 16, 2009)

 
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